Sunday, January 31, 2010

My weekend in Marrakech...

…was infinitely more than I expected from Morocco. Absolutely entertaining. Incredibly overwhelming. Wonderfully exhausting.

Kim and I left on Saturday morning to make the 3 hour drive to Marrakech. So many times I’ve heard “you have to see Marrakech”, and I’m so very thankful to have had the opportunity. We arrived early in the afternoon and sipped tea in the sun of our hotel garden while they prepared our room. We had booked a regular double room, but because Kim is so kind and speaks a bit of Arabic, they graciously upgraded us to a suite! And a beautiful view to boot. Our hotel was called Les Jarins de la Koutoubia. The Koutoubia is Marrakech’s most famous landmark, and you can see it here - the minaret of the famous Koutoubia Mosque.

We then made our way to Jemaa el Fna, or more commonly, the square. This is the low-tech version of Times Square. It is the social center of the city. It is connected to the Medina – which we promptly got lost in. :-) Insanely confusing congested narrow corridors filled with shops, food, people, motorbikes and mules. No picture could ever do it justice- in fact, it was so chaotic, that it was impossible to get a good photo. After a little shopping we wondered around the square.

You know, your typical Saturday afternoon… juice stands, henna tattoos, snake charmers and monkey handlers. So fascinating!! They will all let you take their picture – for a price. And they aren’t coy about it – they will physically hold you by the arm until you give them Dirham. Of course, my handy-dandy guide book prepared me for this – so I learned the trick is to pay first, then photograph. They still get in your face and beg for more money anyway.

After the sun goes down, it gets even crazier. The square fills up with Moroccan food stands which are cooking up the weirdest looking dishes right in front of you. And every stand, just like all of the merchants in the Medina, has someone chasing you down, begging you to spend your money with them as opposed to they guys next door. Even though they are all selling the same stuff! In the Medina, they shout out whatever English words they know – “everything for free today”, to get your attention. In the shops, I heard “hey, Jennifer Lopez”, and then later by the food “you are too skinny – eat here!” Wow, some seriously mixed signals there… :-)

The square is packed with thousands of people. There are street performers, story tellers, and musicians. Absolutely nothing is in English, so pretty hard to understand what’s going on, but entertaining nonetheless. The square is surrounded by cafes with open terraces on the 2nd and 3rd floors – to offer views of the square. Here are some pics during the day, as we watched the sun set, and then the night.

In all, we spent about six hours wondering around the square and Medina - people watching, tasting fruits and nuts, bartering and taking it all in. I have many more pictures to share of the snakes, monkeys and other chaos! And so many more mental pictures of sounds and smells that words could not capture.

Kim and I had a late dinner at the hotel – authentic Moroccan food. Interesting salads, pastillas and beef kabobs. The pastilla (pah-stee-yah) is something I had heard about and was excited to try. It is a small flaky pastry pocket filled with meat (I chose pigeon) and sprinkled on top you’ll find cinnamon and powered sugar. Who would have ever thought of that combination!?! It was so oddly good. There was live music, and even an appearance by a belly dancer. Totally fun.

Upon our arrival, we discovered that the Marrakech marathon was taking place on Sunday. So this morning, we got up in time to go see the start. Beautifully crisp morning – made me inspired to carry through with my mini-marathon plans this year. :-) We then enjoyed an incredible breakfast at the hotel. Pastries, jams, fruit, eggs, and seriously – now I’m not exaggerating here – the best coffee I have ever had. Yum.

Today we visited the Jardin Majorelle. Gorgeous gardens created by a locally famous artist, Jacques Majorelle. Awe-inspiring colors, and very unique vegetation. It was a beautiful spot to grab some photos, and was quite tranquil until the tour bus load arrived. We decided to call it a day, and began the drive back to Rabat. On our way out of town, three and a half hours after the start of the marathon - we passed many runners still making their journey through the streets. We supportively cheered them on.


Morocco truly is a marvelous country. While driving through the country, and taking in the landscape, I could see as we approached the mountains. How surprised was I to see snow covered peaks in Africa! So beautiful, yet too far off in the distance to capture with my camera - just looming in the background, mystically blending with the clouds. Unreal. And, driving back toward Rabat, we leave the mountains of the Marrakech area, and two hours later, you can spy the Atlantic ocean. Add to that the places I haven't even seen - north to the Mediterranean and south to the Saraha Desert. Spectacular.

Honestly, I was quite moved by the whole experience. I feel incredibly fortunate to get to see the world. These are sights and experiences that I would have never dreamed of finding on my own. I’m thankful for all who have supported me while I travel here, and those here who are making my stay so extraordinary.

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